part 2: finding the perfect match

Having a tracker on your vehicle is an absolute novelty; one that many lodges surprisingly no longer practice. But if you want a true “African experience” there really are few people in the world who can do that for you. In my honest experience, a good tracker is one of those people. From day one we are told how important it is to have a great relationship with your tracker and from what I have witnessed that relationship can either make or break the experience for a guest. So it is hugely important to get to know them individually, communicate well and be honest. Whilst you may enjoy the company of one another, it does not always mean that you will work well together; I think that goes for everyone in any job. If you don’t think it’s going to work then one must be honest. It has taken me a year to find my perfect tracker and it’s been a fantastic ride along the way.

Whilst I have worked with numerous trackers, some for very short periods of time and others for longer, there are some individuals who have really left me with some great memories and lessons.

Meet Aaron. Aaron is quiet, one of the gentlest of souls and has been a tracker here for 24 years. Aaron however maybe speaks five words of English. Driving with Aaron is definitely an animated adventure! When I first drove with Aaron most of our communication was through sign language and very exaggerated movements – each of us trying to convey completely opposing instructions and stories. To any vehicles passing by, it may have looked like we were trying to co-ordinate some kind of interpretive dance. But if you are sharp, you’ll see him laugh and for some reason I always treasured Aaron’s laughs; maybe because they reminded me that nothing is ever that serious and despite my occasional frustration we always ended up giggling like children. Aaron taught me to learn Shangaan/Fanagalor. Quickly. The sign language and my attempts at interpreting animal behaviour with my arms have also proved very handy in speaking to non-English speaking guests and constantly add humour where there is no hope. Aaron now works permanently with Zwa. Language is not an issue in their team but I hope he appreciated my effort and creativity and will find it as useful as I.

Then I had a once off opportunity to work with Zeblon or Zeb, a tracker who normally works with one of the other rangers Craig. Zeb does not have an “off button” but I have yet to find someone who doesn’t love it. His round, happy face lightens the ground he walks on. Zeb’s passion for the bush was evident in his love for sharing his culture with guests – he would often stop us on safari to chat about a tree he liked and found useful at home in his traditions. I was as captivated by Zeb as our guests. Zeb taught me that a tracker is an experience in himself and that as a ranger we need to do what we can to share that with our guests.

The first time I worked with Eric my guests said “I won’t lie to you, when I first saw you; I wasn’t so sure. But then I saw Eric”. At over 6ft tall and weighing around 150kg; I might chamber a round if I saw Eric come out the bush. There are stories of Eric lifting the Land Rovers off of rocks that have gotten vehicles stuck. I don’t question it. Eric was the first person I ever tracked and found a leopard with on foot. I hadn’t spotted the small female leopard about 30m infront of me before Eric grabbed my shoulder, pulled me behind him and lead me out. He taught me trust and the importance of teamwork.

Terrance was the first tracker to be able to turn my mood right around with a smile. I am not sure Terrance has ever let a bad day alter his mood. He has the whitest, widest, most infectious smile you have ever seen. He once stopped me in the middle of my safari, jumped off the tracker seat, stuck a finger inside some steaming elephant dung and then stuck it in his mouth. I was horrified; I can’t imagine what my guests were thinking! But, he had us all fooled; he had switched his fingers over so quickly we hadn’t seen him put a clean finger in his mouth. I loved this and decided one day to try this trick myself. Whether it was the adrenaline or excitement I’m not sure, but my co-ordination went out the door and the soiled finger made its way to my mouth. I’m still recovering and I am sure Terrance is still laughing. Terrance taught me to have fun!

But my partner in crime today has been well worth the wait. Somehow I have been blessed with a tracker who I feel embodies all of these traits and more. For anyone who has been on safari with Foster and I will know – we are not just colleagues, but great friends, with a mutual respect and awe for one another. I have worked with Foster for a full 6 weeks now and cannot wait to finish my leave and get back in the bush with him. He leaves me smiling and intrigued. This is a man who will chop down a huge tree blocking the road in minutes, who will do an entire safari with a bug in one eye because he doesn’t want to interrupt the safari to stop – and still spot a snake in a tree. He listens to all I have to say with such intent and keenness he makes me want to learn more just to share it with him. But, if you chase Fozzy with a Chameleon he will run and scream like a girl. Our days are not filled with work but with fun, adventure, memories and friendship.

Everyone is generally very biased to their trackers and I don’t doubt that I am. They sprinkle a bit of magic on an experience that could otherwise be found in many places. They are the last link to our hunter – gatherer ancestors and time spent listening to a tracker is a gift and an insight to times we can only imagine. We are privileged to work with such incredible people on a daily basis.